Tuesday, June 29, 2010

Cozumel by Laboratorio Olfattivo - review

COZUMEL EDP BY LABORATORIO OLFATTIVO
Concentration: Eau de Parfum
Brand: Laboratorio Olfattivo
Country of Origin: Italy
Perfumer: Marie Duchêne
Gender: more Masculine, but I found it interesting for women too!
The Inspiration: Gathering reflections from a past journey, the nose has infused the olfactory pyramid with some Mexican sun, wafts of aromatic herbs mixed with the intimate smell of men’s skin and the wild smells of a distant island.
Description by the brand: "This aromatic, passionate fragrance oscillates constantly between warmth and coolness. Wild, narcissistic and masculine, it melds notes of fresh tobacco, Indian hemp and velvety wood, offering a light touch on the skin that becomes more distinctive once it has pervaded the senses. It is a truly new way of capturing male sensuality in a perfume."
Description by + Q Perfume Blog: RICH, WARM, JET SET YACHT, TOBACCO-HONEYED, GOLDEN.
Olfactive Notes: Bergamot, Vietnamese Basil, Aromatic Notes, Clary Sage, Indian Hemp, Blonde Tobacco, Amber, Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Incense, Tonka bean.
Sillage: Medium to close range
Fixation: Great
RATING: ♔♔♔♔
WHERE:
♔♔♔♔♔ - Pelorus with Abramovich, smoking Gurkha Cigars
♔♔♔♔ - Le Grand Bleau with Shvidler
♔♔♔ - The Maltese Falcon sailing boat
♔♔ - a plastic boat in the tub
♔ - I got sea sick!
Where you can find the fragrance: Laboratorio Olfattivo, Aus Liebe zum Duft, Galilu.
If you loved this fragrance, you will also love Back to Black by Kilian.
If Back to Black By Kilian was a Sherlock Holmes fragrance, Cozumel by Laboratorio Olfattivo is the tycoon yacht lover perfume.
Back to Black starts with bergamot, raspberry, blue chamomile, coriander seed and cardamom; Cozumel starts with a very fresh aromatic accord of bergamot, basil and aromatic notes. Instant reference to sandy beaches and seashells, with an underline tone of minerals. While By Kilian's fragrance invites you to winter delights, Cozumel takes you where the European jet set goes on their holidays: to a yacht. The fragrance is a pure vision of fancy bikinis, elegant Italian suits & shoes, and luxurious coasts of the Adriatic or Mediterranean sea. Saint Tropez, Mauritius, Larvotto, Budva...
The aromatic, medicinal touch of the fragrance is extended by notes of clary sage and hemp.
Clary sage was commonly used by Romans in their orgies. Added to wine it induced alucinations. Hemp is a variation of cannabis. Combined, both notes give a "relax, you are on vacation" note. Herbaceous, green y and yet slightly spicy and anisated, this accord is very "summery".
Here at + Q Perfume Blog, we don't take drugs or get drunk, but we induce our senses to feel light headed and relaxed with noble perfume notes!!
The warmth of this perfume comes with notes of white tobacco & amber - a rich velvety honey contrasting the freshness of the start. Here, the fragrance tends to be much more masculine due to the tobacco note.
The most expensive cigar in the world
While Back to Black By Kilian presents the tobacco combined with amber, almond and vanilla in the base accord, Cozumel brings the tobacco and the amber to the heart.
I will nick name this heart accord as "The Gurkha notes". Wondering why? Because Gurkha is the most expensive cigar in the world. Not only because it will reflect the luxury of this accord, but also the smoothness.
It feels like the jet set had enough fun during the day with water sports, sunbathing, champagne and paparazzi. The sunset is already coloring the sky with tones of orange and red, and our tycoon will sit down to appreciate it with his best companion - the Gurkha.
temperature dropped down and our JS' are looking for warm clothing. Beautiful suits, silky dresses and expensive jewelry will come along with the velvety notes.
Cozumel EDP differs a lot from Back to Black. One is dense, gourmet, spicy and great for winter. The other is softer, velvetier and sunnier. Could be an option for summer and winter, depending on the atmosphere you wish to create.
Both have a smoky touch. In Cozumel we have incense. In BB we have Oliban, combined with cedar and vetiver. Sweetness for both in the end. BB with almond and vanilla - a pastry touch. Cozumel with Sandalwood and tonka beans, less gourmet, more gentle.
At large the fragrance feels soft and tender on my skin.
To the perfumer the inspiration is a trip to the Mexican beaches of Cozumel. To + Q Perfume Blog is a cruise to Montenegro with Le Grand Bleu! No cocktails with tiny umbrellas, no mariachis playing guitars, no tacos and no fajitos or mojitos. Champagne, Beluga caviar, Italian couture, classic music and velvety fragrances.

Thursday, June 24, 2010

Celebrando com Giovanna Kupfer/Celebrating with Giovanna Kupfer

+ Q Perfume Blog está celebrando em Julho, o seu segundo aniversário. Foram dois anos de muitos artigos perfumados, fotos exclusivas, entrevistas com pessoas muito interessantes e muitos convites para participar de matérias, eventos e festas off -blog (fora do blog).
Nada disso teria acontecido se não fosse o carinho dos meus leitores, as parcerias incríveis com os RPs das marcas, e o apoio das pessoas que acreditam no meu trabalho. E para que todos vocês que partilharam deste meu universo, conheçam um pouco mais sobre + Q Perfume Blog, hoje eu apresentarei a musa da minha inspiração. A mulher maravilhosa, batalhadora, linda e genial que me inspirou a entrar no mundo das fragrâncias. Uma pessoa que perfumou a minha vida desde que eu me entendo por gente, e que perfumou o Brasil inteiro durante muitas décadas.
Vocês irão conhecer a trajetória daquela que realmente pode ser chamada a Imperatriz dos Sentidos - Giovanna Kupfer.
GIOVANNA KUPFER
UM SINÔNIMO DE BOM GOSTO
O COMEÇO
Nossa matéria começa na Europa.
Filha de Nathaniel Falber e Helen Weinfeld, dois judeus fugidos da segunda guerra mundial, Giovanna nasceu em Roma, Itália. A família recebeu passaportes americanos devido ao reconhecimento aos atos heróicos de Nathaniel durante a Segunda Guerra Mundial.
Aos doze anos de idade, Giovanna perdeu a sua mãe que acabou falecendo de câncer, e mudou-se com seu pai e seu irmão para o Brasil, para juntar-se a outros membros de sua família que haviam emigrado para o País. E foi assim que o Brasil recebeu uma menina judia, que viria a se tornar uma poderosa empresária, respeitada e amada por todos aqueles que a conhecem.
Formada em artes plásticas pela Faap, Giovanna dava aulas de artes para crianças (sua verdadeira paixão) quando se apaixonou pelo empresário Luiz Kupfer.
Desta união, além das três filhas lindíssimas (Helen, Karen e Mariana) surgiu a semente de um futuro brilhante: Giovanna Baby.
Em 1972 Giovanna criava roupas para suas filhas pequenas. Seu senso de estética e seu extremo bom gosto começou chamar a atenção de outras mamães. A verdade é que naquela década, o Brasil não possuia moda infantil como nos dias de hoje. E Giovanna logo percebeu que existia uma oportunidade de desenvolver o seu talento, ou seja, dar para as crianças aquilo que elas queriam - conforto e estilo.
Sua primeira loja no bairro dos Jardins em São Paulo, não tinha nome na porta, mas tinha uma fachada inteiramente pintada de rosa. Uma loja conceitual, com decoração lúdica e roupas de design exclusivos e diferenciados. Bichos, brinquedos e bonecas enfeitavam a loja e faziam a nossa alegria. Lá, quem reinava éramos nós, as crianças.
NASCE UM CONCEITO OLFATIVO
Hoje em dia está na moda aromatizar estabelecimentos comercias, hotéis, shoppings e lojas. Marketing Olfativo é uma das tendências mais modernas de estratégia de venda. Mas será que isso realmente foi inventado pelos americanos e europeus e estamos copiando?
Vocês ficarão surpresos ao saber que na verdade, que Giovanna Kupfer, a muitas décadas atrás criou seu logo olfativo e aromatizou seus produtos e sua loja. Uma invenção que foi criada e desenvolvida somente pela mente brilhante e visão avançada de Giovanna.
Para ela, aquele mundo encantado e lúdico que ela iria oferecer as crianças e seus pais deveria ser perfumado. Partiu então para a sede da Firmenich na Suiça com a mala repleta de idéias. Fazer um perfume totalmente natural que pudesse ser usado por todas crianças e que refletisse seu amor por elas.
Giovanna encontrou muitas dificuldades em ser recebida para expor suas idéias, foi até ignorada. Mas sua perseverança e insistência (algumas das qualidades mais fortes de sua personalidade) acabou por conquistar os executivos suiços. Nascia então a colônia Giovanna Baby. Engarrafada em vidros de remédio e tampa de porcelana rosa, com rótulos colados a mão um a um. O perfume que iria encantar por muitas gerações, tinha originalmente, notas de alecrim, lavanda, lavandim, rosa, gerânio, sândalo, musk e baunilha.
Frasco estilizado
GIOVANNA BABY EDC
A sua genialidade e visão empresarial não parou por ai.
Sem muito capital para fazer publicidade e divulgar a marca, Giovanna abriu suas portas nas vésperas do Natal. Naquela madrugada, ela e um funcionário derramaram com conchas para sopa, litros de perfume Giovanna Baby pelas calçadas do bairro. A fragrância foi espalhada da porta para baixo, e quando o sol começou a brilhar, toda a região dos Jardins acordou inebriada com o perfume. Todo mundo queria saber de onde vinha aquele cheirinho tão especial. Alameda Franca era o endereço das gavetas, bonecas, sachês, roupas e ambiente perfumados. A partir daí, o sonho de toda criança era ter uma boneca pintada a mão e cheirosa da Giovanna Baby. O sonho de toda mãe era ter sachês perfumados nas gavetas do quarto do bebê. Todos nós queríamos e trouxemos para casa um pouco do amor e dos sonhos de Giovanna. Ela estava presente nas nossas vidas de modo permanente.
UMA DAS LOJAS ENCANTADAS DA MARCA
A marca cresceu e muitas lojas foram abertas (28 lojas e 700 franquias), porém a qualidade dos produtos e dos serviços jamais diminuiu. Giovanna e seu querido Luiz cuidavam de seus negócios como uma quarta filha. Cresceu tanto que chegou a ter endereço na Quinta Avenida em Nova York, num espaço maravilhoso dentro da exclusiva loja Bergdorf Goodman. A marca também era vendida nas Lojas Neiman Marcus, outro endereço chique da cidade.
O Perfume, que já era indicado por todos pediatras, fazia concorrência com a gigante Johnson & Johnson. Um produto que começou de um sonho e destinado aos bêbes e as crianças acabou se transformando numa febre nacional. Todo mundo dava de presente para a namorada um perfume Giovanna Baby. Adolescentes e adultos (inclusive o público masculino) adotaram o perfume.
Além de logo olfativo, marketing olfativo, tecidos 100% orgânicos e ações sociais voltadas aos seus funcionários, conceitos que ela já naquela época adotava (idéias que estão em pleno vapor 40 anos depois), Giovanna criou um outro conceito que poucos sabem ser de sua autoria. Você se acha moderninho por frequentar o Armani Café ou outras lojas que possuem espaços gourmet, como a Daslu? Nos anos 70/80, Giovanna criou a Giovanna Mother, uma loja para as mulheres grávidas e futuras clientes da Giovanna Baby. Dentro dela existia um espaço para tomar chás e chocolates quentes, com croissants de chocolate que eram um sonho. Doces e bolos eram servidos nas tardes chiques paulistanas. Um espaço gourmet dentro da loja onde as mulheres se encontravam para conversar, descansar um pouquinho e fazer compras, muitas compras.
Os anos passaram e Giovanna Baby já estava consagrada como a colônia brasileira de maior sucesso de vendas. O perfume recebeu uma nova embalagem, com design avançado que lembrava o formato de um corpinho de bebê (que chegou a ser copiado por várias marcas, anos depois). A linha foi ampliada oferecendo cremes, shampoos e outros produtos foram desenvolvidos. Tudo ia bem para a família Kupfer, o sonho tinha se tornado realidade.
O CAMINHO DAS PEDRAS
SPA JÁ
Giovanna Kupfer perdeu seu marido para o câncer, e logo após a sua morte a marca sofreu grandes transformações. Após inúmeras batalhas na justiça, Giovanna acabou perdendo o seu segundo grande amor - sua fábrica de sonhos.
Em busca de um novo caminho, embarcou de volta para os Estados Unidos onde começou um novo sonho. Lá conheceu James, seu segundo marido, mas a felicidade não veio sozinha. Giovanna também contraiu câncer e está atualmente vencendo bravamente, dia após dia, a sua própria batalha (que ela vai vencer, tenho certeza!).
Filhas crescidas e encaminhadas, netinhos nascendo, Giovanna passou a se dedicar a um projeto totalmente diferente: um Spa com tratamentos não invasivos, com produtos orgânicos e serviços de altíssima qualidade profissional, que oferecem benefícios verdadeiros e de longo prazo.
A experiência acumulada esses anos todos, aliada ao profissionalismo e ao amor ao próximo, tornou seu novo endereço famoso. Produtos inovadores, técnicas internacionais e brasileiras são oferecidas com sofisticação e carinho. Celebridades frequentam, mas segundo ela, todos são celebredidades em seu Spa, batizado de Spa Já.
O FUTURO PROMETE
Uma mulher que conheceu a dor e o sofrimento da guerra; a dedicação pelo trabalho; a riqueza alcançada e o luxo que ela proporciona; a decepção e a dor da perda de entes queridos e de tudo que construiu; a fraqueza da doença e a força interior de querer continuar viva, não vai parar por aqui. Como era esperado, Giovanna é movida por sonhos.
Aquela que eu chamo de Imperatriz dos Sentidos, por ter explorado a visão, o tato, o paladar e principalmente o olfato de uma forma tão completa e tão maravilhosa, como ninguém mais conseguirá fazer, está se dedicando a um novo projeto, que segundo ela, será o seu verdadeiro legado, seu presente ao mundo. Por enquanto o segredo está guardado, mas detalhes serão revelados quando ela me der o sinal verde. Prometo.
Uma coisa posso dizer: é um dos sonhos mais fantástico que ela já teve!
Obs.: Os produtos Giovanna Baby vendidos atualmente foram modificados e não possuem sua fragrância original. E na minha opinião pessoal, não possuem o estilo, a qualidade e o valor histórico dos originais.
Giovanna, minha querida Giovanna,
Se eu aprendi um pouco do que você me ensinou, se eu recebi um pouco desta sua energia e vontade de realizar coisas, se eu consegui absorver um pouco da sua riqueza interior e intelectual minha amiga, já ganhei um presente de valor infinito.
Se o no mundo existe mais Giovannas, ele com certeza seria cor de rosa.
É com muito carinho e respeito que eu dedico esse meu espaço perfumado e o meu trabalho a você. Eles são, antes de qualquer coisa, inspirados em você e no seu senso de estética, profissionalismo e amor pelas fragrâncias.
Continue perfumando nossas vidas, como somente você sabe fazer.
Batalhas judiciais são perdidas... mas a nossas memórias não!
Com amor, Simone Shitrit.

English Version:

+ Q Perfume Blog is celebrating this July 17th its second anniversary. It has been two years of many scented articles, exclusive photos, interviews with very interesting people, and many invitations to participate as consultant for beauty magazines, many fragrant events & parties off-blog. None of this would have happened if not for the kindness of my readers, the partnerships with the RPs of incredible brands, and support of people who believed in my work. I wish to thank all of you! I also wish to share a little bit more about + Q Perfume Blog. So today I will present you the muse of my inspiration: a wonderful, hardworking, beautiful and brilliant woman who has inspired me to enter the world of fragrances. The person who perfumed my life since my early childhood, and the woman who perfumed our entire country – Brazil - for many decades.

You will ready the incredible life story of the only person who can be really called the Empress of the Senses - Giovanna Kupfer.

THE EARLY DAYS

Our story begans in Europe, after Second World War. When the Jewish couple Nathaniel Falber and Helen Weinfel left Poland to marry in Bucarest. Later, their daughter Giovanna was born in Rome, Italy. The entire family received U.S. passports due to the recognition of the heroics of Nathaniel during the war (he had helped many refugees, including Giovanna’s mother), therefore Giovanna, her brother and parents moved to the USA. At the age of twelve years old, she lost her mother who died of cancer. The family moved to Brazil to join the other members of her family, who had emigrated to São Paulo City. And this is how Brazil has received a Jewish girl, who was to become a powerful businesswoman, respected and beloved by all who ever known her.

Graduated in fine arts in one of the best Universities of the country, Giovanna was teaching art classes for children (her true passion) when she fell in love with Luiz Kupfer, a Jewish brazilian businessman. In addition to three beautiful daughters (Helen, Karen and Marian) born from this beautiful marriage, the seed of a bright future was planted:the brand Giovanna Baby. In 1972 Giovanna was creating clothes for her young daughters. Her sense of aesthetics and her good taste began to draw attention from other moms. The truth is that Brazil did not have developed fashion concepts for children, like we find today. Giovanna soon realized that this was an opportunity to explore and develop her most beautiful talent - to give children what they wanted with comfort and style. Her first store in one of the fanciest neighborhoods of São Paulo (Jardins - where you find today all the most luxurious and expensive international brands, such as Versace, Gucci, Armani, Louis Vuitton and many others) had no name on the door. It was a pink mystery spot soon to be discovered by all of us. It was a concept store, decorated with a playful decor and exclusive & unique clothing design. Animals, toys and dolls adorned the shop and made our joy. There, in her kingdom, the children ruled. We ruled!

THE BIRTH OF AN OLFACTIVE CONCEPT

Olfactory Marketing is one of the most modern trends of sales strategies. Today many commercial establishments, hotels, malls and shops are using fragrances to attract more clients. But was it really invented by Americans and Europeans and we Brazilians are copying? You will be surprised to learn that in fact, Giovanna Kupfer created her olfactive logo, and has scented her products and store many decades ago. An invention that was created and developed solely by the brilliant mind and futuristic vision of The Empress. To her, that playful enchanted world she had created for the children and their parents had be fragrant. In order to create a 100% natural perfume that could be worn by all children, and that would express her love for them, she traveled to the headquarters of Firmenich in Switzerland, with the suitcase full of ideas. She was not received with opened arms. In fact she was ignored. But her perseverance and insistence (some of the strongest qualities of her personality) ended up winning heart of the cold Swiss executives. It was born Giovanna Baby – the most amazing lavender for babies & kids ever created. Bottled in glass vials for cough medicine, a cap made of pink porcelain, with labels pasted one by one by her own hands. The perfume that would become the delight of many generations, had notes of rosemary, lavender, lavandim, rose, geranium, sandalwood, musk and vanilla. Her genius and entrepreneurial vision does not end there. Without much capital to invest in advertising and publicity of the brand, Giovanna opened the doors of her shop on Christmas’ Eve. Very early in the morning in that same day, she and an employee poured liters of the fragrance Giovanna Baby on the sidewalks of the neighborhood with a soup-serving spoon. The fragrance was spread from her shop entrance down the street, and when the sun began to shine, the whole neighborhood was inebriated by the amazing perfume. Everyone wanted to know where that smell was coming from. Alameda Franca St. was the address of the scented cabinets, drawers, dolls, sachets, clothing - her fragrant kingdom. From that day on, the dream of every child was to have a handmade painted doll's smelling of Giovanna Baby’s lavender. Every mother's dream was to have scented sachets in the drawers of her baby's room. All we wanted and brought home was a little bit of the love and dreams of Giovanna Kupfer. From that day on she was also present in our lives permanently.

THE EXPANSION

The brand expanded, and many shops were open (28 stores and 700 franchise units), but the quality of products and services was never diminished. Giovanna and her beloved Luiz took care of business like a fourth daughter. The brand became so big that she went international by having a spot in one of the most valuable addresses of New York City – The Fifth Avenue, a boutique inside the exclusive Bergdorf Goodman. The brand was also sold at Neiman Marcus Stores, another chic address in town.

Giovanna Baby lavender was indicated by all pediatricians and succeeded to compete with the giant Johnson & Johnson. The product that started from a dream, and was intended to be only for babies and children, ended up becoming a national fever. Every girlfriend received a Giovanna Baby perfume from her beloved. Teenagers and adults (including the guys - for her own surprise) adopted the perfume.

Besides creating olfactory marketing, using 100% organic fabrics in her clothes and developing social projects to help the financial development of her employees - concepts she embraced at that time (ideas that are hip now, 40 years later), Giovanna created another concept that a few know that is originally her idea. Do you think you are hip and modern because you are seen in the Armani Café, or other stores offering gourmet spaces, such as Daslu (the fanciest store in São Paulo, recognized internationally as a center of Luxes and Haute Couture)? In the 70's/80's, Giovanna had also opened Giovanna Mother, a shop for pregnant women, the future moms & customers of Giovanna Baby. Inside, there was room to sip a cup of tea, drink a hot chocolate, with chocolate croissants that were simply dreamy! Sweets, pastries and cakes were served in the chic afternoons of São Paulo. A gourmet corner inside the store where women met to talk, rest a bit and make purchases, many purchases.

Many years passed and Giovanna Baby was already established as the most sold Brazilian lavender. The perfume received a new package, with a beautiful modern design that resembled the shape of a little baby body (which was copied by several brands, years later). The line expanded offering creams; shampoos and other body, bath & hair care products. All was going wonderfully well for the Kupfer family. All their dreams have become a reality.

MILESTONES

Giovanna Kupfer lost her husband to cancer, and soon after his death, the brand suffered major transformations. After numerous battles in the Brazilian Courthouses, Giovanna ended up losing her second great love - her factory of dreams.

In the search of a new life without her life partner and business, she traveled back to America where she would start a new dream. She met James, her second husband, but happiness did not come alone. Giovanna also contracted cancer and is currently winning bravely, day after day, her own battle (she'll win, sure!). With grown up daughters and beautiful grandchildren, Giovanna began to devote herself to an entirely different project: non-invasive spa treatments with organic products and services of the highest professional quality, offering true long-term benefits. The experience accumulated all these years, the professionalism, and the love she has to share with others, made her new address famous. Innovative products, international and Brazilian techniques are offered in her Spa (SPAJÁ) with sophistication and care. Celebrities are usually seen there, but as she says ”everyone is a celebrity in my spa”.

THE FUTURE PROMISES US MORE SURPISES TO COME

A woman who knows the pain and the suffering a war can bring; the wealth and luxury achieved only by the dedication for her work; the disappointment and the pain of losing her loved ones and everything they built together; and the weakness of a fatal disease, will never surrender. The inner strength to want to continue to live will only help her to do what she does best: make dreams come true.

The lady I call the Empress of the Senses, having explored the vision, touch, taste and smell, in such a brilliant wonderful way, like no one else will EVER do, is embracing a new project, which according to her "will be my true legacy, my gift to the world."

For now the secret is kept, but details will be revealed when she gives me the green light. I promise.

One thing I can say: it is one of the most fantastic dreams she ever had!

Note: Giovanna Baby Products sold today have been modified, and do not have their unique fragrance anymore. And in my personal opinion, do not have the style, quality and its historical value.

Giovanna, my dear friend Giovanna,

If I've learned just a little of what you taught me, if I got a bit of this energy and desire to accomplish things, if I could absorb some of your inner intellectual richness my darling friend, I've already got a gift of infinite value. If there were many more Giovannas in this world, it would surely be pinkier. It is with great affection and respect that I dedicate this fragrant space and my work to you. They are, above anything, inspired by you and your sense of aesthetics, professionalism and love for fragrances. Please continue perfuming our lives how only you know how.

Legal battles are lost ... but not our memories!

With love, Simone Shitrit.

Friday, June 18, 2010

Perfumes are not about sex????

This is one of the special articles written by this editor for the celebration of the blog's SECOND YEAR anniversary this July. As you will notice, it is longer than the usual publishings and it contains a lot more pictures and links. ENJOY!
+ Q Perfume Blog has been writing, as promised, not only fragrances reviews, but also about projects off bottles, about packaging, trends, advertising, events and many subjects that you won't find in many other blogs.
So, this year, celebrating the blog's second year of success, I bring to you, my beloved friends & readers, one of the most controversial themes: Perfumes and sex.
If you are under 18 and you are already buying fragrances for yourself, you are also invited to read this article. It is not about showing nudity or pornography, but to open your eyes to what you are exposed and influenced when choosing a fragrance.
If you are under 18 and you do not buy perfumes, this article is not for you!
Make up by MILY SEREBRENICK
In the book The Secret of Scent (adventures in perfume and the science of smell), published in 2006 by Luca Turin, he made an arguable strong statement: Perfumes are not about sex. His arguments were clear when concerning pheromones, and that most fragrances for men are not good (so it could not be about sex right?), and no matter if we have a cold and lost our sense of smell temporarily, sex would still be ok, due to the fact that all the other senses would still be there.

LUCA TURIN

But is it really true that perfumes are not about sex?

The answer is pretty obvious to me: It is not JUST about sex, but it does have a lot to do with it. And to build my case, since Luca has already rested his, I invite you to engage in a different journey, to explore the world of niche and massive production brands, and find out, if not only I do have a point to be considered, but if I also succeed to expose marketing strategies build on sexual attraction to sell perfume.

Our adventure starts with niche brands, and our first stop is a brand that considers itself to be subversive, declaring an independent way of creating perfumes, following olfactory eroticism, and uses personal fantasies as the upper hand on marketing concepts.

État Libre d’Orange owned by Etienne de Swardt, proposes that perfume has the power to evoke the body and its urges, and invites us to wear our sexuality as a second skin. To the founder, perfume has erotic energy and it is a tool of seduction. The fragrances have rather curious names, such as Sécrétions Magnifiques EDP (magnificent secretions), Putain de Palaces EDP (prostitute of the Palaces), Delicious Closet Queen EDP, Vierges et Toreros EDP (virgins and bull fighters), Noël au Balcon EDP (Noël on the balcony), all references to prostitutes, to virile members, drag queens and sexual fantasies. The logos: virile members and vaginas.

They also have surprising inspirations, such as Tom of Finland, an artist notable for his fetish art and stylized homoerotic and pornographic illustrations; Fat Electrician, a legendary urban character and a gigolo from the 70’s.

TOM OF FINLAND

The most shocking creation, in my opinion is “Don’t get me wrong baby, I don’t swallow!” The perfume is about resistance & surrender and blowjobs!

DON'T GET ME WRONG BABY!

Resisting so far? Well, État Libre d’Orange is niche, therefore it has its followers and its enemies. Some will find their concepts a collection of bad taste and vulgarity; some will find it hip, creative and super cool. Whatever they are, they are absolutely 100% about sex.

Moving on, there are other explicit messages in the world of niche perfumery such as Alan Cummin’s perfume. He is a Scottish actor and producer who was once described as “the frolic pansexual sex symbol for the new millennium”, and he has launched his own fragrance, named Cumming EDT, a classic men’s cologne, with notes of bergamot, black pepper, pine, whiskey, leather, peat fire, highland mud, burnt rubber and white truffle. In addition to this the core notes, a finish off - Cummin’s nudity.

ALAN CUMMIN - CUMMING

Well, Cumming could come from his last name, but evaluating both the sexual appeal of the site (where he lies down completely naked), and the video (showing him giving a statement on the fragrance, totally naked and saying “I am coming, or cumming”), one can only think that he really meant a sexual orgasm.

To watch Cummin cumming, click HERE

Sex has also been the inspiration for famous perfumers. Christopher Laudamiel created a fragrance for the brand Shaping Room, founded by Nobi Shioya, called S-EX EDP. Composing the fragrances, notes of salt, oxygen, spirit of life, camellia, willow, white leather, skin musk, malt, strawberry, baroque musk and black leather.

Described by fragrance critic Chandler Burr (New York Times) as “a masterful, complex juxtaposition of elements that gives the scent of the genitalia of a freshly shampooed beast”, I keep wondering if Luca Turin knew all these fragrances when he made his statements.

The other fragrances of the collection are 100% love and s-love (with a sperm logo), lust and sloth.

S-EX

Designer Jesus del Pozo, launched in 2009 Haloween Kiss Sexy EDT, a fragrance to “A young, modern and cosmopolitan woman who can express her sexual nature without false modesty. She clearly enjoys the power her sexuality gives her.” The advertising – a woman held by a man, showing his naked derriere.

HALLOWEEN KISS SEXY EDT

I could just end our journey here, but what about mass production (prestige) perfumery? Are they also not about sex?

Let’s make quick stop at Tom Ford’s fragrances, a brand between niche and mass production. Not necessarily sexual. But the advertising... Exposing human genitalia and placing the bottles strategically near models’ intimacies was not only a marketing strategy to launch his first perfume, but it made a lot of noise and has shaken more conservative people.

TOM FORD

And when censure was cogitated, Tom argued, “the highly stylized creative treatment gave the ad an artistic quality, not a salacious one.That is pretty arguable too, but Mr. Ford knows: sex sells! A man of refined and impeccable taste chose to relate sex to his fragrances explicitly for one good reason: To sell his perfumes because men want to get more sex!

TOM FORD

Loewe’s advertising video for the fragrance Aire Loco EDT shows a woman entering a room where men are sitting down. She sits in the center of the circle. By the influence of the perfume spread in the air through a peephole in front of her, she takes a glass of champagne, spills it on her breast, and with the tongue she licks it off the skin. Not only sexual, but also exhibitionist.

LOEWE AIRE LOCO EDT

To watch the hot video, click HERE

Charlize Theron undressed for Dior in the TV commercial for the perfume J’Adore. The actress walks through the room, throwing jewelry and clothes to the floor suggesting that gold, diamonds and expensive cars are not competition for a good fragrance. “Feel what is real,” she says.

Contemporary elegance or cliché? Whatever opinion I might have on this, one thing is for sure: Charlize ‘s perfect naked body sells!

To watch Charlize strip teasing, click HERE

And if we are already mentioning clichés, most of fragrance commercial advertising videos show women or men seducing or chasing each other. Men cannot resist to this or that celebrity/model wearing the brand’s fragrance. He chases her like animals ready to breed during spring.

Another steaming hot video is the one performed by model Kate Moss for fragrance Parisienne EDP by YSL, the last launch of the brand. Highly suggestive, the blondie is in the back of a limo, fantasying about having sexual pleasure in a leather bustier & high heels, on a bed of roses with a stranger.

By touching herself with hands and a rose that travels her body, including touching her intimacies, Kate Moss is one more time doing what she does best – getting a lot of attention. Why? Because the brand decided that showing a model kissing a guy on the top of the Eiffel Tower would not be enough to sell the weak flanker of Paris.

To watch Moss' fantasies, click HERE

Still in the same brand stop, the last masculine launch, La Nuit de L'Homme EDT shows French actor Vicent Cassel being smelled and lusted by many women. Less explicit, but still selling the idea that wearing this perfume women will come like bees searching for flower nectars.

LA NUIT DE L'HOMME EDT - YSL

To watch Cassel's seduction, click HERE

The script for masculine fragrance commercials is always the same, what changes is the brand, the fragrance and the celebrity. So Luca has a point when he states that most masculine perfumes are not that good, but the marketing strategies directors of the brands are.

Dolce & Gabbana launched a new collection of fragrances called Anthology - the advertising campaign shows models Claudia Schiffer, Eva Herzigova, Naomi Campbell, Fernando Fernandes, Noah Millsand Tyson Ballou all completely naked, proving that today's competition for celebrities went one step up. To leverage sales, not only a brand needs celebrities, but also sex and naked bodies.

If you wish to watch some campaign relying on sex to sell, check those:

Hot by Davidoff campaign - to watch explicit sex in Brazil's beach, click HERE

Light Blue by D&G campaign - to watch the video, click HERE

Scape by Calvin Klein campaign - explicit sex - to watch the video, click HERE

I will not exhaust my dear readers with a long list of many other brands, and their descriptions of videos and advertising campaigns. To make my closing argument I will bring some of the words and descriptions appearing the most to describe a fragrance, either by press release, critic or review: sexy; sensual; voluptuous; sex appeal; brings out the sensuality; unveils or reveals the sexiness or sensual side; brings out the desires; inspired by fantasies, encounters; makes women irresistible; expresses the sensuality; incarnation of a Diva, etc…

Of course there are fragrances inspired by gardens, childhood memories, temples, exotic lands, history, etc… and as Luca Turin brilliantly explains, pheromones are perceived by a separate organ in the nasal septum, and the perfume itself is not a biological attractant. I agree with him when he explains that the sense of smell is not even necessary for human sexual engagements, so chemically, perfume is really not about sex. But psychologically, wearing perfume is to care more about yourself and the image you project, is to self indulge the senses and up scaling the self-esteem therefore, it is also a make-believe that anyone can attract this or that person they desire and therefore, get more sex. And knowing that, many marketing strategies to sell perfumes rely on it.

So, to rest my case, perfume is not JUST about sex, but a huge percentage of the launches and the purchase decisions are pretty much about it!

...and extracted from the New York Times, with an All Street Journal video: Some cats disagree with Luca Turin, proving that chemically, perfumes do have a power of attraction:
"Calvin Klein's advertisements are so great because the sex appeal and lust between the models seems so natural. Turns out they don't need to pay human models to fake it for their men's Obsession scent, when there are big, hot, hulking cats out there who naturally lust for the stuff. Zookeepers at the Bronx Zoo discovered the cats like to rub, hug, and lick things sprayed with Calvin Klein's men's Obsession scent. Now researchers are using the fragrance for crucial research in Guatemala, in which they put Obsession-spritzed rags in the forest to attract jaguars to their hidden cameras. How else are scientists supposed to see them having sex?"
Obs.: all photo and video credits belongs to the brands and its photographers: Loewe, Dior, D&G, Tom of Finland, Mily Serebrenick, État Libre d'Orange, Tom Ford, Calvin Klein, YSL, New York Times, J. Del Pozo, Shaping Room, Alan Cummin, Image Bank & Pinkcakebox.
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